Blog

Three

The third in a series on Loves. Surfers. Yes, those who ride weather, water and wave. I love them. The rapid thunk thunk thunk of footsteps atop the wooden stairs that led up to the flat I had rented that morning at Currumbin Beach, Queensland, jolted me out of my jetlag induced reverie. I had been in Australia for less than 12 hours and had somehow managed to get from Sydney to Coolongatta and into a flat with a rental car in that time. Not bad, but I was tired. It was the second leg of the 1978- 1979 Pro

Two

This is the second installment in this series on many loves. It is about Surfing. Not many people know exactly why they surf. It just is what they do. Surfing gives a lot to the participant. It often gets to the point of seeming to be a greedy avocation. The more you get, the better you become at it, the more that it drives you. I have surfed all of my life. My Dad tossed me in a pool at 4. I swam. He then taught me to bodysurf. I never looked back. Only forward. It is still that way

One

I love the wave thing. Always have. Here are a few from this past week’s amazing sessions. Maybe listen to this as you toggle through the tight gallery I have assembled here. Great video. Seth Godin had this to say the other day, and it greatly resonated with me, friends and colleagues. You are your past performances. This treatise on Tribes was sent along by Camille Harris. Ted Talk. I highly recommend it. One thing is for sure: Love NEVER fails. Get to it. Surf work shot on the Canon 5D Mark 2 using Tokina Optics and SPL water housings.

Poli Amo

I love those who love me, and those who seek me find me. – Proverbs 8:17 Everyone should be so fortunate as to pursue and possibly capture the object of their desire. But what is it really, that adds to your life and leaves you in pursuit? Because it is always in the going, that happiness is found, and great work. The above verse was penned by a pretty wise man. King Solomon died after experiencing all that the world itself could give a person, sort of spiritually and emotionally bereft. Yet he had the wisdom to pen the verse

Waterborne

Ours is a watery world. Immersed from the point of our conception, we have an affinity for water. So it comes as no real surprise that many of my closest friends and colleagues are fans of my work, and in turn me of their vision and passion. Greg Huglin, Dick Hoole, Falzon, Davey, Aichner, Havassy, Croci, Koniakowski, Bruce Brown, etc. The list is long of those men whose work fuels my own desire to produce. I met Jack McCoy one evening as I was walking down the beach on the South Shore of Oahu. I was hand holding a little

Surf Session

It is actually sort of rare for me to shoot surfing centric images. Often what is required to make a great image is even more complex than what is necessary to make a great break fire on all cylinders. So having everything line up: talent, weather, swell, tide, attitude, schedule, is pretty rare. But when it happens. The quantity and bar of the work produced is mind blowing. This week has been session after session. This was yesterday. Perfect day for what I do, when I finally focus on surf. Hans Rathje is the surfer. One of those guys who

Waves: Neo Creative

I needed to shoot more wave and water surf work after the past couple months like, umm, well let’s just say, I did not need any more work to satisfy my commercial or editorial clients. But right now I am buried in post production work from multiple back to back swims over the course of several days. My feet have a couple ulcerous sores which are oozing blood. Caused by not having time to rinse some gravel out of my Da Kine fins in between sprints after a promise. I have probably shot close to 10,000 winners in this genre.

Surfing is for Everybody

William Orbit gets it. Click on this link if you want a soundtrack for this blog Had a gal come by yesterday who was working on a College thesis at Syracuse, and had asked if she could interview me about the changes that I had seen on the coast in my lifetime. Wound up talking about how, in spite of the ocean doing pretty well, (My homestretch of coast used to be littered with innumerable oil piers which were dark, pitch stained fingers, laying across the bright blue of surf lineups. They are all pretty much gone now. Removed.) that

Prologue

Not many could say it better than Seth Godin does in his blog today as we stare down the barrel of the new year and change we must render. So as I round out the holiday season this year it will be by taking a short respite, and then a look at my process as an artist and business owner. Many of us are necessary to implement lasting change and progress. In this year, may we all engage together, more efficiently and with a clear sense of purpose. The storms always pass. Massive Attack

Sliding into 2011: Year in Pictures

Golden Reflections This link is to a new piece by Zuri Star called Keep Holding on. It fits the New Year quite well. It seems that all around us this past year there was friction. In fact, I found myself enmeshed in three massive battles, all at the same time. I did not author those. I simply said “no” to three entities I saw as abusive of my fellow man, community and Ocean Environment. friction |ˈfrik sh ən| noun the resistance that one surface or object encounters when moving over another : a lubrication system that reduces friction. • the

Blog

Categories