Understanding Motivation: Covid 19 Reality Series
I saw this view one day while doing some long lens work at Pipeline. I know many of the surfers in this frame. I like them a lot, and care about what happens to them. Joel Tudor is amazing. Way more to that man than most will ever know. Then there is Bethany. I first met her one day at Off The Wall as she and Mike Coots, another shark attack survivor, were getting ready to paddle out. Housing in hand I had actually teased them a bit about the missing limbs. Each absolutely floors me with their heart